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New York Fashion Week: layers on layers

By Kristopher Fraser

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Fashion

New York Fashion Week kicked off yesterday, and day one has already let us know that fall/winter 2016 will be about wearing as many layers as possible.

First up for the day was Nicholas K. They appear to still be taking inspiration from the last Mad Max movie, but they have graduated to be a bit more tailored. Also, there was no denying that those off shoulder jumpsuits are a very innovative and stylish offering. The design team of siblings Christopher and Nicholas Kunz wanted to keep things very urban, but perhaps they are best served doing more traditional luxury. Their skills with the use of materials like crushed velvet proved that they are skilled craftspeople, but they should break out of the urban zone and attempt more tailored pieces.

Their outerwear was also strong as well, with deconstructed black coats being the perfect compliment to all of their looks. The piece were hit or miss, but they had some winners in there for sure.

BCBG Max Azria set the tone for how layers would dominate this season. The first look they sent down the runway was a gunmetal ribbed lurex sweater, with a light gray asymmetrical wrap sweater vest, a light grey colored-blocked wool tweed vest with a patch pocket, a silver lurex seamless legging with slash detail, and cognac sandals with shearling detail.

While shearling and sandals are not exactly the match made in heaven one would picture, the sweaters and outerwear in this entire collection were a layered dream. There was a huge range of color, and this collection can be summed up into one sentence "bundle up, and keep it stylish." Whoever made the argument that fashion can't be functional for fall/winter needed to take a look at the way the brand paired a French cream printed drape dress with a French cream alpaca wool tailored vest.

Desigual, Nicholas K, and BCBG Max Azria proved layering might dominate this season's trends

One designer who broke away from the layering trend, and found his inspiration for his evening wear after his trip to Egypt was Mathieu Mirano. The designer who "wanted to capture the wind's graceful forms and movement" brought bright colors, silk with hollow thread, glittering liquid silk to create an innovative evening wear collection. it should be noted that the silk with hollow thread he used is one of the lightest clothing materials known to man, so if he is attempting to stand out from the rest of the crowd he is doing a stand up job.

While offerings like a black liquid silk strapless multi-tiered dress came off as a little too fresh out of design school, there is no denying that the designer has an incredible amount of potential and he is one to watch. Not everyone can construct silk easily, but he made it look effortless.

While so many people are off being obsessed with the urban and athleisure, Desigual took their city inspiration from a more artistic place, drawing inspiration from metropolis cities from the ancient world to the 21st century. The collection's aesthetic was a cultural collage combining everywhere from Samarkand, the capital of the silk route, to Constantinople, and Byzantium.

The brand also followed the layering trend of the season, with looks such as a floral-and-brocade turtleneck with ankle chiffon floral dress and floral beret, a Russian-inspired velour turtleneck tunic over matching pants, and an embroidered drape collar trench coat over a floral faux-fur collar anorak. The design team also proved to be masters of patterns as well. The contemporary girl has no desire to look boring, and she won't in any of Desigual's offerings.

Layering triumphed all trends at day one of NYFW, but let's see what the rest of the week has in store.

photos:via Fashion GPS
BCBG Max Azria
Desigual
Mathieu Mirano
Nicholas K