European textile federations call on the EU for "urgent action" against ultra fast fashion

Paris - "Without delay", "immediately": European textile and clothing companies "can no longer wait years for measures to be taken against ultra fast fashion", they write in a joint letter to the European Commission. Fashion and textile players are growing impatient with the slow legislative response to Shein, Temu and AliExpress. These large Asian e-commerce platforms are accused of flooding the European market with cut-price and non-compliant products, unfair competition, environmental pollution and exploitative labour practices.

They are calling on the European Union to take "urgent action" against ultra fast fashion. This is to stem the "unprecedented rise in textile waste" and "untenable pressure on European businesses". They note that 4.5 billion parcels were imported in 2024 by "the largest e-commerce platforms from third-party countries", according to the letter seen by AFP. It is imperative for these federations to strengthen customs barriers. This includes "immediately" implementing the reform of the European customs code, not in a few years' time. This reform provides for the abolition of the exemption from customs duties for goods with a value of less than 150 euros. This is a measure from which the targeted e-commerce giants, who ship small parcels from China, largely benefit.

The signatories believe it is necessary to speed up ongoing investigations against these platforms. They also believe it is necessary to impose "the heaviest sanctions" provided for by European regulations, if needed. They also recommend "charges on small parcels" and the initiation of "a dialogue with the Chinese authorities". Finally, they believe it is necessary to "require" these companies to "appoint representatives (...) so that they can be held legally responsible".

"Act now"

These demands are being made by the representative body Euratex (the European Apparel and Textile Confederation). They are also supported by numerous federations from several countries (France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Greece, Switzerland, Belgium, Portugal, etc.). They will be brought to the attention of the European Commission in a letter signed on Tuesday at the Première Vision trade show (GL Events) in Paris, which will then be forwarded to the Commission. For several months, Asian online sales platforms have been facing an outcry from environmental and human rights organisations, European businesses and authorities. This has resulted in investigations, colossal fines and proposed legislation to curb their growth.

These efforts are necessary but insufficient in the eyes of the signatories. The EU has "both the means and the duty to act now", said Euratex president Mario Jorge Machado in a statement to AFP. "This is the first time that the European federations have decided on a joint declaration", said Pierre-François Le Louët, co-president of the UFIMH. This letter represents "the beginning of concrete actions without going through the meanders of European decisions", said UIT president Olivier Ducatillion.

The French government also wrote to the European Commission at the end of August. They urged the Commission to urgently acquire "new powers to delist" online sales platforms in breach of EU law, targeting Shein in particular.