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Milan Men's Fashion Week round up

By Don-Alvin Adegeest

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Fashion

Milan men's fashion week finished on Tuesday with Giorgio Armani's regular slot closing out the week. The Fall 2017 shows were a mix of designer debuts at established houses alongside notable absences including Jil Sander, Roberto Cavalli and Gucci.

Ermenegildo Zegna

Alessandro Sartori is the incoming designer at Zegna, who's first collection for the menswear giant was presented on a colossal scale, both in scope and venue size - an exhibition space at the edge of town. Zegna is the world's leading menswear brand with sales over 1 billion euros annually, but the company has been experiencing a disconnect with the consumer and changing tastes. The suit is no longer the prestige uniform it once was and Sartori took the cue and showed gorgeous sportswear in the most luxurious fabrics and natural colours. The opening look of a white roll-neck and deconstructed blazer worn over a jersey sweat pant spelled CEO off-duty, not East London chic. The tailoring was modernised by the choice of fabrics and button closures, like a double cross-over or simple lapel. There was enough modernity to move the brand on without compromising its core customer.

Marni

Francesco Risso heralded his debut at Marni, a difficult start perhaps replacing founder Consul Castiglione who has helmed the brand for over two decades. Citing ‘the diversity of the people in the street’ as inspiration, designer Risso's first outing was received with mix reactions. The crumpled clothes seemed more shoddily un-ironed than street style; the boatneck sweaters ultra feminine even for those who favour 'quirky' clothes; furry wolverine patches on jacket sleeves were just plain odd. If the effect was playfulness this debut was a huge success. Let's hope there are more commercial items off-catwalk in its wholesale collections.

Dolce & Gabbana

It was a social media marketer's dream, this Dolce show. Instagram stars, YouTube heavyweights and handsome teen bloggers were featured in this epic show, which featured over 100 looks. Cameron Dallas, Brandon Thomas Lee, Rafferty Law, all the it-boys descended the catwalk, of which Stefano Gabbana told Vogue.com: "These guys are representative of millions of young people. We are not so young anymore. So it’s very interesting for us to try to understand what they love and don’t love.” There was too much of everything to dissect the catwalk, from baroque tailoring to silky pyjama gowns to oversized bomber jackets to trousers with a pussy cat print. This was a collection not for the shy and beholden, and obviously very Instagram friendly.

Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo's new design director Guillaume Meilland didn't feel the need change the house codes, opting more for a refresh than starting over. This was a good move, as the clothes referenced what Italy does best - exquisite tailoring and craft. How did this translate? Coats were elongated, as was the silhouette. Trousers were roomy, but slimmed down at the same time. There was lightness in volume and design, the sign of a veteran who knows his fabrics and how to cut.

Photo credit: Catwalkpictures and Ermenegildo Zegna Facebookpage

D&G
Ermenegildo Zegna
MFW
Milan Fashion Week