Amsterdam Fashion Week: From dancing models to windmill and supermarket as backdrops

Amsterdam Fashion Week brought together both debutants and established names. New fashion labels such as Dolly Sports and Studio NK shared the calendar with well-known names like Camiel Fortgens and Tess van Zalinge, who presented their collections at various locations throughout the city. In addition to fashion shows, the programme also included presentations, talks and other events.

Movement takes centre stage

Amsterdam Fashion Week demonstrated that a collection can be presented in more ways than a classic runway show. While fashion weeks like Paris and Milan adhere strictly to shows where models walk the catwalk one by one, Amsterdam-based labels are exploring alternative presentation methods. For instance, the Amsterdam streetwear label The New Originals had dancers move through the Nxt Museum space in Amsterdam-Noord, accompanied by a saxophonist, before screening the short film Home Is Where the Heart Is. This turned the presentation into more of a performance than a traditional fashion show.

That same was true for Dolly Sports, founded by Eline Starink and new to the Amsterdam Fashion Week calendar this year. Instead of a traditional runway where models walk one after another, the brand had models, who were also dancers, move along a blue carpet. This was more reminiscent of an athletics track than a classic catwalk, with 't Blauwe Theehuis in the Vondelpark as the backdrop. The dancers held cheerleading pom-poms, and a modern dancer was also present. This athletic approach was extended to the autumn/winter 2026 collection, featuring metallic materials, windbreaker jackets and sporty silhouettes.

A third example was debutant Fortanier, the label by Eva Korsten, who previously co-founded the shoe label Yume Yume. For the presentation, Korsten chose a playful set of low, soft pink platforms scattered throughout the space and finished with pleated fabric. Models not only moved between the platforms but also incorporated them into the presentation by walking and posing on them. This approach also abandoned the fixed route of a classic catwalk, making the set an integral part of the show.

From windmill to supermarket: city becomes stage

Dutch influences were also reflected in the locations where the collections were presented. For instance, windmills provided a recognisable backdrop for designer Ruben Jurriën. The Dutch references extended beyond the location, with texts like "Wees lief" (Be kind) and "I Love Gezellig" serving as clear nods to Dutch culture. It was no coincidence that the collection was titled "Maak Nederland weer Gezellig!" (Make the Netherlands cosy again!).

Camiel Fortgens presented his spring/summer 2027 collection in the Albert Heijn supermarket on Stadionplein in Amsterdam-Zuid after closing time. Team members of the Dutch fashion brand were dressed in the recognisable Albert Heijn workwear, while the characteristic ‘bleep’ sounds of the checkouts could be heard during the show. The models walked several laps through the supermarket, with an extra layer, such as a jacket, added to the looks mid-show. Afterwards, Fortgens' voice came over the intercom to thank the attendees and direct them to the exit. The unconventional location was reminiscent of the Chanel Fall Ready-to-Wear show of 2014, when Karl Lagerfeld also presented his collection in a supermarket.

The 20th edition of the debutant showcase Lichting took place in the Passage of the Rijksmuseum on Museumplein. The talent platform, which has been providing a stage for young Dutch designers since 2007, celebrated its anniversary edition at one of the most prominent cultural locations in the Netherlands.

Amsterdam Fashion Week becomes broader industry platform

Collaborations extending beyond traditional collection presentations were also showcased off the catwalk during Amsterdam Fashion Week. For example, the Dutch accessory brand Wandler, founded by Elza Wandler, partnered with the British fashion platform Puss Puss Magazine on a limited-edition magazine for Wandler's autumn/winter 2026 capsule collection, ‘A Study in Glaze’. The collection includes the Hortensia, Penelope and Ida bags in calfskin with a glossy finish. Puss Puss, which has been published biannually from London since 2014 as both a magazine and a digital platform, placed the collection in an editorial context with its own international creative network.

The collaboration demonstrates how brands can use a fashion week to highlight a collection not only through a show but also through other media and partnerships. For Wandler, Amsterdam was a logical location; the brand was founded in the city and chose to present the limited-edition magazine during the local fashion week.

Additionally, the United Repair Academy and Levi’s event focused not on launching a new collection, but on extending the lifespan of existing clothing. The collaboration during Amsterdam Fashion Week centred on repair and craftsmanship, highlighting the role of repairers in a fashion industry increasingly committed to circularity.