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G-Star Raw's Aitor Throup launches women's raw research

By Kristopher Fraser

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Fashion

G-Star Raw is out to redefine the meaning of Raw by deconstructing denim to its purest form. The third collection of Raw Research was presented this season at Paris Fashion Week, featuring undyed, unwashed and untreated raw denim.

For the Paris presentation on June 23, G-Star also celebrated the debut of Raw Research women's collection, and Throup's first ever collective work of womenswear. Women's styles reflect the overall design philosophy of Raw Research III, and the resulting pieces seamlessly blend minimalism and functionality, without compromising femininity. For both the men's and women's collections the brand's in-house innovation laboratory follows the same design approach – pushing the boundaries of product design through a process of exploration, curiosity and experimentation.

The women's Raw research was launched alongside menswear, with each collection featuing 10 pieces presented in undyed calico denim. In addition, the same collection goes through of a process of hand dyeing where the indigo is added to the raw garments, resulting in an organically irregular visual effect. In an effort to challenge the convention of what defines denim, the G-Star innovation lab separated, analyzed, and utilized the core elements of denim – the raw fabric and indigo dye – in new and experimental ways.

"We are coming out of an age when technical and functional design is considered inherently masculine," said executive creative director Aitor Throup. "We believe that our obsession with product design principles such as ergonomics and concinnity is as relevant for women as it is for men. By clashing tradition with innovation, the resulting prototypes serve as blueprints for the main collections in the future."

The collection was presented at Garage Lübeck in Paris, shown as an artistic and interactive installation featuring models that reflect the collection's inspiration and unique designs. All new styles were also presented in 44 different hand-dyed color options as a metaphor for how the brand is pushing the conventions and constraints of denim, and challenging the recipients' perceptions of what denim can be. An exclusive musical arrangement by Woodgrain, under the creative direction of Throup, was composed to go along with the visitor's journey through the presentation, having a conceptual connection to the product and installation.

Raw Research III will be available in select high-end concept stores around the world, from early December 2017.

photos: courtesy of KCD Worldwide
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