Gucci: Demna unveils brand's new direction
Gucci's new creative director, Demna Gvasalia, has offered a first glimpse into Gucci's future. On Monday, the designer presented ‘La famiglia’, "the beginning of a new, brazen, sexy, excessive and provocative era", according to a press release.
The Gucci ‘La famiglia’ collection explores all the nuances of "Gucciness": the essence of Gucci as a vision and shared aesthetic. The brand's codes are reflected in Catherine Opie's portraits like an ideal family tree. It is a constellation of diverse personalities and contrasting aesthetic sensibilities; quirky facets of Gucci's multifaceted and ever-evolving soul.
The published lookbook begins with ‘L’archetipo’, a monogrammed suitcase. It is a nod to the house's origins, rooted in the world of luxury luggage. Immediately following is ‘L’incazzata’, impetuous in her 1960s red coat. A striped pattern captures the feline and unpredictable boldness of ‘La bomba’, while ‘La cattiva’ envelops herself in the resolute elegance of a true femme fatale.
‘Miss aperitivo’ thinks only of pleasure, while ‘L’influencer’ is a social-media-enthusiast fashionista. ‘La mecenate’, ‘La contessa’, ‘Sciura’ and ‘Primadonna’ embody different manifestations of a single, Italian elegance. ‘Principino’ and ‘La principessa’ also reveal themselves as two sides of the same coin: both love to be the centre of attention.
"A sense of exquisite nonchalance permeates every gesture: a low-heeled slingback, a soft leather sabot just barely slipped over the heel. It is the art of ‘sprezzatura’, a casual elegance that describes the Italian lifestyle," states a press release.
The distinctive models return in new interpretations. The Gucci Bamboo 1947 bag and the Horsebit loafer, introduced by the fashion house in 1953, are presented with new volumes and proportions. A nocturnal interpretation of the Flora motif stands alongside its more classic variant, unchanging and eternal. The GG monogram marks every detail. Guccio Gucci's initials are worn in a total look, from sunglasses to loafers – all or nothing.
The silhouettes alternate in a play of contrasts: from the maximalist opulence of gold jewellery and long, feather-adorned coats to the neo-minimalist sensuality of close-fitting, seamless garments.
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