Issey Miyake: How IM Men explores new design methods
IM Men, part of the Japanese fashion house Issey Miyake, is currently hosting an exhibition at the Berlin-based retailer Andreas Murkudis. The autumn/winter 2025 collection is now also available there. This initiative aims to establish the brand in the German market and bring it closer to customers.
What is behind the menswear brand, what makes it so special, and how does it follow Miyake's philosophy of creating garments from a single piece of cloth? Head designers Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura and Nobutaka Kobayashi explain.
About the IM Men design team:
The creative process at IM Men is led by Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura and Nobutaka Kobayashi. All three have their own expertise and are members of the parent Miyake Design Studio (MDS). They were selected for this task in 2019 by the founder of the Japanese fashion house to launch the line. All three had been active for many years for various brands and lines at MDS.
Sen Kawahara specialises in design and development. He first worked on Pleats Please Issey Miyake and then on In-ei Issey Miyake. In 2010, he became part of the design team for 132 5. Issey Miyake and later joined the Homme Plissé Issey Miyake team. He is currently also involved in the design of Issey Miyake Eyes in addition to IM Men.
Yuki Itakura also specialises in design and development and, like Kawahara, joined the design team of 132 5. Issey Miyake in 2010. He continues to work for this line in addition to his role at IM Men and Please Issey.
Nobutaka Kobayashi brings over ten years of experience in textile design from Issey Miyake's womenswear collections. The textile designer then moved to Me Issey Miyake and Homme Plissé. In 2017, he joined the 132 5. design team. He is currently the textile designer for IM Men.
How does IM Men differ from other brands in the Issey Miyake universe?
Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura and Nobutaka Kobayashi: We pursue Miyake’s philosophy of “a piece of cloth” from the perspective of menswear. One of our strengths and defining characteristics lies in our methodology of creation, which brings together design and engineering as a team effort. Rather than limiting ourselves to specific techniques such as pleats, we actively incorporate diverse approaches to explore new methods of making and new forms of beauty. This also opens up possibilities for design that emerges from engineering itself.
The concept is based on exploring new possibilities in design and production while creating functional products. How do you approach this?
Some typical examples are the flat-foldable and compact design, crease-resistant and lightweight material, design with an awareness of human movement; and manufacturing from a single piece of fabric.
Design principles at a glance:
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Flat-foldable (compact) design: Space-saving for travel and in the wardrobe, no ironing and no hangers
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Crease-resistant, lightweight material: Ensures freedom of movement and easier care, as comfortable as loungewear and therefore more versatile - at home and on the go
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Original design with an awareness of human movement: The use of machine and iron pleats as well as more organic pleats - such as crinkle pleats - provide a structure that naturally follows the body's movements.
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Made from a single piece of fabric and designed to leave as little fabric as possible: contribute to sustainable production by reducing the manufacturing process and the effort required to recycle fabric remnants.
This seems to bring together many different skills...
The design team at IM Men works closely together and consists of members who are experienced in both design and engineering. Each of us is not only able to design, but also to oversee the process right through to production.
Among the three core members of the team, Sen Kawahara and Yuki Itakura come from pattern-making, while Nobutaka Kobayashi specializes in textiles. Each members also draws on experience in other fields — from shoes and bags to eyewear and lighting — which adds to the range of ideas and techniques we can bring into our work.
At IM Men, we also focus on developing our own textiles, and here too, interdisciplinary knowledge is the key to new ways of thinking and unique perspectives.
The Homme Plissé team travels to get to know different countries and their inhabitants. Where does the inspiration for IM Men come from?
Everything we encounter in everyday life. The same goes for what we experience while traveling, as with the Homme Plissé team, as well as the many opportunities we have to see exhibitions, film works, and more. We are always attentive to the things that move us.
You use different approaches to present your collections, such as performances and exhibitions. What difference do these types of presentation make?
The performance of a show is not only about presenting styling, but also about expressing the relationship with the body and the more spiritual aspects. In contrast, an exhibition serves as a place to highlight other perspectives such as textiles and structures that cannot be fully conveyed in the limited time of a show. It also reflects our intention to create opportunities that are more open and accessible to a wider audience.
What can visitors expect at 'Fly With IM Men' in the Andreas Murkudis store?
Unique products from IM Men, created by combining traditional Japanese techniques with the latest technology. Our approach and aesthetic differ from Western traditions as they are rooted in the 'a piece of cloth', the design philosophy of Issey Miyake.Most importantly, this exhibition allows the audiences experience the textures and three-dimensionality of the garments something that cannot be fully conveyed through images or video.
To what extent does the exhibition tie in with existing collections?
The exhibition is based on the autumn/winter 2025/26 collection, which was presented in Paris in January 2025, followed by the exhibition immediately afterwards. From this collection, which began with the creation of textiles, representative products have been selected for display.
The exhibition started in Paris and then travelled to Japan - Tokyo and Osaka. Berlin is now the fourth city. The presentation is adapted to each space, offering a unique experience in each location.
About IM Men:
IM Men is a menswear brand from the fashion house Issey Miyake, launched in 2021 to pursue new possibilities in design and manufacturing. As with all Miyake lines, the 'A Piece of Cloth' philosophy is at the core. Here, functionality and creativity meet. The abbreviation 'IM' is based on the former brand 'im product', which was available from the late 70s to the 90s.
There is currently one IM Men store in Aoyama, Japan. There are also three retail spaces in department stores in Japan, Taiwan and China. The brand is also sold in several Issey Miyake stores, seven of which are in Japan and ten in international markets and metropolises - Thailand; Taiwan; the People's Republic of China; Singapore; Hong Kong; New York; London; Paris; Milan and Zurich. IM Men also works with around ten retail partners in North America and Europe, including Andreas Murkudis in Berlin.
This interview was conducted in writing.
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