Behind Façon Jacmin: The entrepreneurial and creative vision of two sisters

Antwerp - There is something quite rare in what Ségolène and Alexandra Jacmin do. There is no unnecessary noise, no growth at all costs, and no back-to-back Parisian shows just for the sake of being on a schedule. In ten years, the two sisters have built Façon Jacmin with a logic that is almost entrepreneurial craftsmanship. They advance step by step, stay true to their creative origins, and never compromise on quality.

From their own boutique in Antwerp and a network of carefully selected retailers, they have successfully established themselves far beyond Belgium. Asia is now their main business-to-business (B2B) market, a presence built gradually and almost naturally. On the occasion of their tenth anniversary, FashionUnited met with the two founders to understand what ten years of independence teaches and demands.

In a few words, what is the Façon Jacmin aesthetic?

Ségolène Jacmin: It is truly a wardrobe designed for the empowerment of the person wearing it, with statement pieces defined by their material and cut. We call the brand Façon Jacmin because it refers to the quality of the craftsmanship – the finishes and fabrics have always been very important to us. There are also many contrasts in the brand: masculine/feminine, oversized, fitted and a mix of tailoring with a more street style feel.

Alexandra Jacmin: We also deconstruct garments a lot to play with the codes of different types of pieces. Trompe-l'œil and illusion are recurring themes: playing with codes, deconstructing them, and transforming one garment to create another. We also find this in upcycling. As my sister said, we mix the masculine and feminine wardrobes a lot, with rather oversized proportions combined with more fitted pieces.

Why did you want to create your brand in 2016, and what was your mindset ten years ago?

SJ: I really wanted to create my own business, be independent, and do things from start to finish. I had worked in consulting and something was missing for me... creativity, even though I did not have a creative background at all. Also, the freedom to do things as we want, the satisfaction of starting something and making it grow. I also wanted a tangible product rather than a service, and I have always loved building relationships – being in contact with people and evoking emotions through clothing. For me, it is really the entrepreneurial side combined with the creative product.

AJ: For me, it is really the creative aspect. I had worked for other designers and houses before creating the brand, and I wanted to create for myself, from scratch, not for an existing house. When my sister suggested it, I thought I had the experience and wanted to embark on a joint project with her. I also wanted to bring more confidence and strength to the people who wear our clothes. It was very stimulating for me to think that we could bring something extra through a garment.

“Over time, I gained more and more confidence and learned to let go.”

How has the style of Façon Jacmin evolved over the past ten years?

AJ: It happened gradually. In the beginning, we really had to test materials and familiarise ourselves with many things. I did not yet have someone with me to really explore everything I wanted to do. Over time, I gained more and more confidence and learned to let go. A few years ago, we welcomed a pattern cutter-designer to the team and with him, I was able to really let myself go creatively, whether in volumes, cuts, or finishes. That really helped in the brand's evolution. With my sister too, in the beginning, the pieces were perhaps more timeless, but our eye has changed, our vision has evolved. We had a greater desire to stand out, to innovate, and to make the product even more desirable.

What makes a product desirable?

AJ: It is true that it is difficult to say. I think it first has to please us, to give us something, and we have to feel good in the garment. Desirability goes with comfort. We do not want a restrictive garment; that is the opposite of desirability. When you see a person constrained by their clothing, you can feel it. I think desirability is also about how the person wears the piece, beyond the cut and colours. That is what creates desire, what brings desirability in my opinion.

SJ: Sometimes, we realise that for women, this balance between femininity and something strong is very important. For example, this piece [Ségolène is wearing a sweatshirt with a 2-in-1 zip detail], I think is very desirable. It works really well, it has an original side, but it is in the attitude, in the way it falls. It is especially when you see the person who feels good in it, who feels strong. It is the person's energy that makes the piece desirable.

What are Façon Jacmin's bestsellers?

SJ: The sweatshirt I am wearing, for example. We also have an upcycled bustier made from a T-shirt; it is super comfortable, super easy, and sells very well. We have unisex jackets, the Fly and Marty models, which are very popular for their cut. There is also a jacket in what we call 'brown wax' – it is like leather, but it is not. We also have velvet models, the McFly Velvet, with a brown velvet under which blue denim appears at the wear points. The shirts also do very well. They have a beautiful classic cut, but always with a twist, a bit of deconstruction.

The collections must have grown. How many pieces did you start with, and how do you manage quantity and pace today?

SJ: We have always done two seasons a year. The first collection was about thirty pieces. We have evolved, each time carrying over half, or a little less. When we started in B2B and internationally, we had to gradually increase the size of the collections. Today we are at around 80 new styles and 60 references in total, so we have doubled. It is a lot.

AJ: Yes, counting all the material variations. We always try to have a balance between new styles and styles carried over in other materials. It is also to offer different look proposals, because with a smaller number, it is difficult to offer real variety.

“Until now, we have always done everything to keep up with this pace, and it is only now that we are realising it may not be necessary.”

There is a lot of talk about the frantic pace of collections and burnout. Have you had to refuse certain things to protect your mental health or the brand's integrity?

SJ: Until now, we have always done everything to keep up with this pace, and it is only now that we are realising it may not be necessary. After several seasons in B2B, we realise that it is going too fast. We never have time to step back, to analyse certain things, to change others. It takes time to think, and that is really the negative point of B2B for me. Everyone maintains this rhythm, these urgencies, and you can ask yourself why… but the public, the industry, always needs new things, ever faster. This is strongly felt in fashion, but ultimately it is happening like this throughout society.

Do you think a change is possible in the coming years?

SJ: It is difficult to say. On one hand yes, some things will have to change… but I find it hard to project. We have been talking about slowing down, questioning fast fashion, and sustainability for a long time, and we see some changes, but they are small compared to the bulk of the industry.

Can an independent brand like yours afford to slow down?

AJ: I would like us to present later than June, but the problem is that afterwards, buyers have less budget available for orders. We are a bit stuck. We are a small brand, we can afford it less. It implies a transition, skipping a season...

You are twin sisters, and the press often romanticises family duos. How does it work in practice when, for example, Alexandra's creativity clashes with the financial realities Ségolène must impose?

AJ: I will try to convince my sister that we need certain materials, even if they are expensive. Sometimes there are disagreements – she thinks about the cost and I have the results more in mind, I tell myself that despite the price, it will be convincing. We try to find alternatives.

SJ: It is a process. In the beginning it was complicated, we even had a coach at one point to better understand that we are different and communicate differently. Since then, it has been much better. I think being sisters really helps. If it were a partner with no family ties, it would be even more complicated. We can be frank with each other, and we know we will always get over it. The brand has brought us closer.

What are Façon Jacmin's successes that you are proud of?

AJ: First, it is the team. Over the years, we have really developed a great team, I was just thinking about it yesterday.

SJ: Me too, that is often the first thing I think of. Otherwise, a significant moment was the show in Paris. When I did the briefing with everyone, when I saw all those people gathered, I was wow, really moved. I was proud.

Are you considering another show in Paris?

SJ: In itself, yes. When we did it the first time, it was already with the idea of potentially doing it again. We also said to ourselves, with Alex and Lola [Lola Clabots, the press manager who works with the brand], that if we did it again, it had to be done well: budget, time, everything. We are a small team, organising that every season is a heavy load. So yes, why not, but without the pressure of the schedule. There are already enough constraints in the industry, if it also impacts the progress of the collection, it is not sustainable. It is also a question of budget.

What is your assessment of that first Parisian show?

SJ: It helped us enormously. It gives credibility: buyers, people in the industry see that and think that it marks an evolution, that it is professional, serious.

AJ: Yes, it also helps for the online business. The main idea for me was to make an impact for B2B: to be taken seriously by buyers. We have a high positioning and we are looking for this type of retailer, so it was important to show that we are on the schedule, that we are credible. I think we were happy, there were a lot of people, it was well done, it was talked about a lot.

What advice would you give to young designers who want to start their own independent brand?

SJ: You really have to be patient. Have the right expectations about development, know that it takes time to get where you want to be. You also have to be aware of the financial need it implies, not be naive, know that it requires a lot of investment, and not think that after one year everything will be running smoothly.

AJ: And have a clear vision of what you want in terms of DNA, know what products you want to make, be really good at what you do. There are so many brands on the market that you really need to have a clear idea and vision.

What are your plans for the future?

SJ: To continue to evolve well, stay true to our values and grow the business in a controlled way, always with our initial idea. We have always done things step by step and that is why we are satisfied today. So more international presence, more retailers, and maybe pop-ups around the world, two or three a year, to raise the brand's profile. We have also talked about potential future collaborations, with established brands or not.

What is Façon Jacmin's biggest market?

SJ: In B2B, it is Asia, China. With the boutique and the website, it is Belgium. What is interesting is the US on our site — at one point, it was half of the orders. There is a retailer who sells us in New York, perhaps through a collaboration with influencers. Broadly speaking, Asia really represents an important market for us.

And Japan in particular?

SJ: Yes, Japan is where we started testing B2B. We had requests to stock the brand very early on. It took a little time, but yes, it is a good market. We already had many Japanese customers initially. I think the aesthetic speaks to them, and European products, especially Belgian ones, have a good reputation there.

And what will Façon Jacmin look like in ten years?

SJ: Even more customers, more retailers, and maybe a larger boutique in Antwerp, or another boutique elsewhere, perhaps in Paris.

AJ: I would like the boutique space to evolve, for it to be even more of an experience, for it to represent today's brand even better.