Italian luxury retailer Nugnes: Why it is now the time for courage and growth

The Italian family business Nugnes, with roots in tailoring and the opening of their first menswear boutique in 1956, is taking a step forward. This hybrid fashion retailer – with a range from classic luxury brands to streetwear-oriented collections – bolstered its expansion last month with the acquisition of the traditional luxury retailer Mimma Ninni. The chain in the southern Italian region of Apulia will be expanded from one to four shops in one fell swoop.

In this interview, director Giuseppe Nugnes explains what prompted him to do this, what his customers expect from him and what long-term goals he is pursuing.

Why acquire Mimma Ninni?

It has been a long process that began over two years ago. At a time when the market was looking for an explanation for the bursting of the online luxury fashion bubble, we decided – thanks in part to visionary management and experienced advisors – to strengthen the foundation of our retail craftsmanship: well-considered, smart purchasing; a consistent omnichannel and customer-centric approach; and the strong connection with our home base and brand DNA.

What goal are you pursuing?

This step allows us to align the online channel with Nugnes’ DNA and the needs and desires of our customers – not the other way around. With that in mind, we have developed a new strategic plan with the aim of transforming Nugnes into a 'factory of wonder' – a place where the magic of Apulia and the Mediterranean lifestyle are tangible in every customer interaction.

Against this backdrop, Bari was a conscious and desired next step that we actively pursued, which ultimately led to the agreement with Mimma Ninni. For us, this feels like passing the torch – in the spirit of a retail philosophy that we want to establish not only in Bari, but also in other Mediterranean cities in the future.

Is integration of the shops complete?

We have already integrated the two shops and the concept store. It will certainly take a few more months before our vision is fully realised. This concerns both purchasing and the creative direction, which we are currently harmonising as quickly as possible – without the customers in Bari experiencing any inconvenience.

Will the retail spaces be renovated?

Certainly. We are already working on planning a complete restyling of the various spaces to make the Nugnes spirit and brand DNA tangible in the Bari boutiques as well.

How is the Italian fashion market recovering?

The market is gradually recovering. We have deliberately swum against the tide in recent years, and we are quite proud of that. In addition to the acquisition in Bari, we have simultaneously renewed our entire technical infrastructure and omnichannel approach: from the switch to a new ERP system and a new Product Information Management (PIM) to the platform on Shopify Plus. Additional measures in the field of Customer Relationship Management and the integration of AI-driven services will follow soon.

How can the fashion industry progress?

We are convinced that the growth and recovery of the industry are possible through a smart and sustainable return to investment, particularly in innovation, to make the shopping experience even more intense, personal and inspiring. Fashion is – and should increasingly be – a market of experiences, not just a market of products.

What is the mood amongst your customers?

Unfortunately, there is still too much negativity towards the industry. Yet our customers are still eager to experience fashion and be inspired by beauty. At the same time, they demand more and more authenticity, involvement, a real experience, product and service quality and a lot of fair play from us and the brands.

Which fashion direction is gaining traction?

We are currently seeing a rediscovery of a new form of elegance. The keyword for us is contemporary harmony. The lesson – and the shock – of the streetwear trend has not disappeared, but is increasingly being processed and is leading to a direction characterised by clarity, restraint and refinement. These days, we are seeing a growing focus on creating one’s own style – not only through cuts and fits, but through the combination of different materials: a mix of innovative fabrics with traditional processes.

What is your conclusion on the SS26 menswear season?

We may not be in the most glorious period ever, but there are important signals, new ideas and emerging trends. It is precisely in such transitional phases that those who innovate courageously and with a sense of proportion can lay the foundation for a positive future. Many brands are currently redefining their DNA and searching for a more authentic interpretation of society. We are convinced that this process will soon lead to the development of a new, common stylistic thinking and a new visual language.

Were there any trends that particularly excited you?

Absolutely. Jonathan Anderson’s collection for Dior marked a pivotal moment: a masculine vision that clearly articulates, for the first time, widespread but not yet clearly defined sensibilities. His work touched on several tensions of the season: the return to a consciously shaped, sculptural physicality; a new restraint with clear volumes and neutral colours; and a growing desire for introspection. Instead of imposing a trend, he picked up scattered signals and formed them into a mature, common language – a new chapter in the story of contemporary masculinity.

Have you discovered any new brands?

Yes, there are and will be new brands, both in the shops in Bari and Trani and in the online selection. That is perhaps the most exciting aspect of our work – especially now. Going back to research is essential, although we never stopped doing that at Nugnes. Nowadays, the search – both by buyers and customers – is focused on a mix of values: people choose not only on the basis of creativity and collection, but also on the basis of what lies behind it, the philosophy that guides the brand vision. From the brand philosophy and the price-quality ratio to the uniqueness and usability of the product and the ability to communicate with different styles – these are all decisive factors.

What do you expect from SS26 womenswear in September?

Expectations are high. Many fashion houses are undergoing major transformations and the time is ripe to redefine languages and visions. We hope that fashion will continue to express its full cultural and social potential and become a space for stories, reflection and collective imagination once again – beyond just the product or the concept of luxury. In that sense, womenswear will likely be central to this change, as the female figure has traditionally played a leading role in the development of fashion language and creativity.

This interview was conducted in writing.