Oeko-Tex: “Traceability is becoming a prerequisite for market access”

Traceability is increasingly seen in the apparel industry not as a competitive advantage, but as a prerequisite for market access. This is the key message of the recently published annual report from Oeko-Tex. New legal requirements in the EU, US and Canada increasingly demand that companies can prove the origin of their products and raw materials, as well as their manufacturing processes. Companies that can document their supply chain from raw material to finished product are therefore better prepared for customs inspections, regulatory audits and trade restrictions.

Organic cotton certifications see massive increase

Oeko-Tex substantiates this change with its own development. The number of Oeko-Tex Organic Cotton certifications has increased by 214 percent within one year. Certified organic cotton is now available through supply chain partners in more than 20 countries. Demand for other labels from the Oeko-Tex family also increased, such as “Made In Green”, a label with verified supply chain data, which grew by more than 13 percent. In total, 5 percent more Oeko-Tex certificates and labels were issued than in the previous year. Only the Oeko-Tex Leather Standard recorded a decrease of 6 percent, while the most well-known seal, the Oeko-Tex Standard 100, remained at the same level.

“When I look at the recent changes in our industry, I am sure of one thing we can all agree on: trust has become our most valuable currency,” explains Dr Alfred J. Beerli, CEO of Oeko-Tex. Despite the complex new regulations, he sees a great opportunity in the change. “At Oeko-Tex, we have always been convinced that real progress occurs when transparency goes beyond mere compliance with regulations. Our growth of 5 percent in all certificates and labels issued this year proves that the industry shares this conviction.”

EmpCo directive to start at end of September

The regulatory deadline for sustainability claims is approaching. From September 27, 2026, the EU's EmpCo directive will require sustainability labels to be based on certification systems verified by independent third parties. Self-declared eco-labels will no longer be permitted. Oeko-Tex certificates and product labels will remain compliant beyond this date. According to Oeko-Tex, this is largely the reason why demand has increased so much this year. CEO Beerli stated: “What becomes law in September 2026 is what we have been demanding for more than three decades. We are exceptionally well-positioned to help companies and brands meet these strict new requirements.”

Goal: expanding digital traceability

To further develop the digitalisation of traceability, Oeko-Tex has also entered into a partnership with the traceability platform TextileGenesis this year, initially as a pilot project in the organic cotton sector. In this way, Oeko-Tex aims to verify the flow of certified organic cotton along the entire supply chain and lay the foundation for greater transparency in products and locations. “By digitalising transactions for Oeko-Tex Organic Cotton, we are making our processes secure, data-driven and scalable,” Beerli continued. Once this project is established, digitalisation will be gradually extended to other certifications and labels.