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Spanish entrepreneurship in Dubai: Coma

Continuing our series of publications on Spanish entrepreneurship in Dubai, following the interview with Enrique Hormigo, founder of Montroi, we now turn our attention to Coma. This Dubai-based fashion brand, boasting entirely local production within the emirate, was co-founded by Spaniards Mercedes Valencia and Cristina Alcedo.

From Dubai to the world, via Spain. This could be the most succinct summary to begin understanding the brand’s current market reality. Spaniards Mercedes Valencia and Cristina Alcedo launched this fashion house in 2023, reviving and renewing Valencia’s initial “Coma” project from 2017 in New York. This first project, specialising in showcasing Spanish craftsmanship and manufacturing expertise through the sale of “Made in Spain” leather bags and unique accessories imported by Valencia to the US, was discontinued following the outbreak of the coronavirus pandemic. Valencia relocated from the United States back to Spain, and finally to the United Arab Emirates.

Coma, campaign photograph. Credits: Coma

Having overcome these turning points, which led Valencia to a new stage of life and development in Dubai, she proposed to long-term resident of the emirate, Alcedo, the idea of relaunching Coma. This time, however, it would be a fashion brand with its own production and offering. Alcedo enthusiastically embraced the project, laying the foundations for this Dubai-based brand. It acts as a stimulating bridge between East and West, and more specifically, between Dubai and Spain. Spain, besides being the native country of both entrepreneurs, is currently Coma’s main market, despite the challenges they acknowledge in strengthening their position in this market from the emirate.

This is one of the confessions they share in the interview with FashionUnited, which follows our initial introduction to Coma last February. We visited Dubai for its Fashion Week and enjoyed a relaxed meeting, then only with Alcedo, in Dubai’s Textile Souk, one of the most authentic corners of the emirate. She outlined the brand’s key aspects and realities, which we will now explore in greater depth, during a private meeting held within the offices of Dubai-based textile company Yaser & Mayasa. This leading textile company, with offices in Toronto, Dubai, Baghdad and Shanghai, dates back to 1920. It is Coma’s first and still one of its main suppliers, providing the Spanish-Emirati brand with beautiful fabrics. Valencia and Alcedo use these fabrics to create all of their fashion collections entirely in Dubai. As a true reflection of Coma’s soul, they represent an unexpected blend of Arab and European influences.

What led you to launch Coma, and to base it in Dubai?

Valencia: We founded the brand in Dubai simply because we have lived here for several years. This allowed us to become familiar with its creative, multicultural and constantly evolving environment before even launching the brand. Living in Spain is wonderful, but living abroad gives you a different perspective on many things. In our case, it was particularly true of fashion, and we wanted to reflect this in our project and through our collections.

Cristina Alcedo (left) and Mercedes Valencia, co-founders of Coma. Credits: Coma

What challenges and difficulties did you encounter when launching the brand, and when trying to scale it up and taking Coma to the next level?

Alcedo: One of the biggest challenges has been learning to manage collaboration with people from different cultures. Despite everyone’s willingness and good intentions, it is certainly complex when references, work rhythms and creative visions come from different places. It has required a lot of effort and adaptability to clearly express our brand identity, the style and impressions we try to convey through our collections, and to ensure each garment remains true to our initial vision.

What are your current responsibilities within the company?

Alcedo: We currently share equal responsibility for both creative direction and brand strategy, managing everything related to the brand, from start to finish.

What were your initial objectives when founding Coma? What was your idea and intention?

Alcedo: From the outset, our main objective was to build a brand with a strong and coherent aesthetic identity, offering high-quality, timeless and functional garments. We wanted to launch a project that moved away from the concept of fast fashion and proposed a more conscious alternative, focused on design, durability and responsible production. Coma was born from this vision, as a fashion brand aiming to dress a contemporary, cosmopolitan and discerning woman who appreciate both style and the values behind each garment. In short, as a brand born with the intention of creating its own universe, taking care of every detail, from patterns to communication.

“Our main objective was to build a brand with a strong and coherent aesthetic identity, offering high-quality, timeless and functional garments.”

Cristina Alcedo

Based on that, what objectives do you think you have already achieved?

Alcedo: Since our founding, we have managed to build a solid and recognisable identity through a coherent and differentiated aesthetic proposal. This has been achieved mainly through our first collections, which have been very well received. Therefore, I would say that we have achieved several of the objectives we set when founding the brand. However, we naturally still have a long way to go and many new goals to achieve.

What other short-, medium-, and long-term objectives have you set?

Valencia: In the short term, our main objective is to continue consolidating the brand. We are working to expand our market presence through both physical and digital points of sale. From a medium-term perspective, we aim to diversify our collections and incorporate new product categories. In the long term, our objective remains the same as when we founded Coma: to establish a brand with a strong and lasting identity, capable of transcending trends and connecting with women from different cultures who share our way of seeing and experiencing clothing.

Where are Coma collections currently sold?

Valencia: We currently sell our products mainly through our official online shop. We also collaborate with concept stores and multi-brand shops, to whom we are grateful for the trust they have placed in our brand and for sharing our values in terms of design and advocating for a much more sustainable consumption model.

Coma, campaign photograph. Credits: Coma

What strategies do you plan to implement to further develop the brand, working in line with your stated objectives?

Valencia: Firstly, we are investing in shaping an even stronger and, above all, recognisable brand identity. Secondly, we will continue developing our digital channel, improving the online shopping experience and strengthening our presence on social media.

How do you think being based in Dubai has influenced Coma’s development?

Alcedo: Being founded in Dubai has allowed us to develop the brand in a multicultural environment and in a strategic location that facilitates connections with key markets in Asia, the Middle East and Europe.

“We are working to expand our market presence through both physical and digital points of sale.”

Mercedes Valencia

As Spaniards living abroad, has starting a fashion brand in the emirate presented additional difficulties?

Alcedo: Yes, we have also encountered some difficulties in that regard. Not being physically in Spain, we do find that our growth in the domestic market is slower as a result of this distance. This, and also the perception that sometimes exists in Spain about Dubai, is somewhat distorted or associated with an image that does not reflect the reality of those of us who live here.

Do you envision the project being developed elsewhere in the future?

Valencia: For the moment, we have not considered relocation as a priority. Dubai remains our base of operations because it is where we live, where we have developed the brand and where our families are. That said, we do not deny that, as mothers of young children, many future decisions related to the brand’s development will be influenced by our personal and family situation.

Coma, campaign photograph. Credits: Coma

In any case, will this continue to be a local fashion brand project focused on specific markets, or will it become more international and global?

Valencia: When we founded Coma, the idea was always for it to have an international focus. However, to achieve this, we understood that before trying to grow externally and from that global ambition, we needed to consolidate ourselves in very specific markets. We are currently still pursuing this strategy, working to strengthen this base, which we hope will become increasingly solid. This will allow us to continue moving forward, growing and achieving that objective.

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