Four macro trends driving AW20 womenswear
UK fashion tradeshow Pure London wrapped up its AW20 edition on Tuesday, closing an event which saw visitors from over 80 countries and more than 1,300 fashion collections coming together under one roof at Olympia London. At the fair, visitors also got to see a presentation by Jane Kellock, founder and creative director at fashion forecasting platform Unique Style Platform, about the macro-trends driving the AW20/21 season. Here is a summary of the four trends:
Slowing down is key to the first trend, Hibernate. The humancentric trend is a reaction to the increasingly fast-paced world we find ourselves in, said Kellock. As consumers look to slow down, they find refuge from modern life in self-care and comfortability. Shapes of clothing are voluminous and cosy with warm layers and padding as consumers look for products that make them feel cocooned and protected. The colour palette is soft and warm, combing neutral pastels such as rose, pastel pink, mint and sage green. Retail spaces also reflect the trend with many creating homely, safe spaces where customers feel at ease.
The second trend, Attune, is all about making eco-friendly choices in a world of mass-production and fast-fashion; it’s about making conscious choices against a background of decision exhaustion and overconsumption. The trend is a reaction to consumers becoming increasingly interested in how garments are made and what they’re made of. Transparency, honesty, simplicity and circularity are key. The trend features sustainable fabrics, biomaterials and recycled fibres, with natural tones drawing on nature, such as rich browns and greens, beige, creams, chartreuse and rust.
Opulence draws inspiration from the aristocracy, historical references and ancient ceremonies. Oversized florals and exaggerated proportions create a statement look centred around occasion - but occasionwear that can be used as daywear as luxury becomes redefined for the contemporary consumer. Accessories have a religious aesthetic, while the colour palette includes bright oranges and reds combined with Cadbury purple, plush blue and metallic gold. The trend is also about authenticity and community. “Brands are trying to tap into consumers desire for original aesthetics and authentic conversations,” Kellock said. In retail it manifests itself in the form of experiences - it’s about creating something people want to share on Instagram and often incorporates emotion, drama and nostalgia.
Nu Tech is about blurring the gap between technology and humanity. The trend sees streetwear and athleisure elevated and optimised with brands increasingly harnessing technology to create new smart and adaptive materials. The trend is underpinned by bold, bright colours such as electric lime and acid yellow, while black, peach and midnight blue anchor it in reality. In retail, brands are using technology to enhance consumer experiences. Companies such as Nike and sneaker platform Goat, for example, are using AR to allow users to see what they’d look like wearing certain sneakers.
Photos courtesy of Hyve Group