Pitti Uomo: A fine fragrance emanates from Florence

This week at the Pitti Uomo menswear trade fair, brands offered a first glimpse into the upcoming autumn/winter 2026 collections. For this season's edition in Florence, 758 brands presented their collections, with 47 percent originating from abroad – more than ever before.

The growing international presence was reinforced by guest designers such as Japanese brands Soshiotsuki and Shinyakozuka, as well as Paris-based Hed Mayner. Dedicated areas focusing on various regions like China, South Korea and Scandinavia also contributed to this.

Pitti's international relevance continues as number of UK and US buyers rises

The total number of exhibitors was lower, in contrast. Last January, 770 brands exhibited. Raffaello Napoleone explained to FashionUnited that this was partly due to a smaller exhibition area, as construction work is taking place in several locations on the trade fair grounds.

The CEO of the trade fair organiser is constantly working with his team to optimise the various formats. In the future, this could mean integrating the Pitti Bimbo children's fashion fair into the menswear concept. Napoleone stated the reason for this is that many buyers who cover both sectors choose one event rather than travelling to Florence twice. Furthermore, the international focus is set to be expanded even further.

Overall, the head of the trade fair drew a positive conclusion on Thursday afternoon, after the two busiest days had passed. According to a statement from Napoleone, the number of international visitors on Thursday afternoon reached a similar level to the January 2025 edition, which stood at 5,000.

“Considering the many international tensions and the caution with which the market is moving, this is a result of great significance,” said the head of Pitti.

Among the visitor countries strongly represented at the fair, there was an increase in buyers from the UK, the US, the Netherlands, Turkey, Japan and Greece. Germany, Spain and France recorded slight declines. The number of Italian buyers is also down, according to reports from Florence. Preliminary estimates suggest the final figure will be around 7,600 people.

“This, we must not forget, corresponds to the challenging picture that market observers are painting regarding national distribution and retail,” said Napoleone. Meanwhile, growth was recorded in visitors from Northern Europe and more distant countries such as Brazil, Mexico, Israel and Canada.

For Napoleone, 2026 remains a big question mark, especially considering the latest geopolitical changes. The atmosphere at the trade fair itself was positive. This was despite brands and retailers entering a critical phase in the coming weeks, with issues like cautious consumer spending and a relatively warm winter looming. Even on Thursday, after two very busy days, footfall in the halls and across the grounds remained high. Key themes included 'New Formal Wear' and adapting to changeable weather, which also played into the brands' hands.

New formal wear

As has been evident in recent seasons, more and more classic brands are leaning towards the 'full look'. They are focusing on “mix and match,” as described by Roy Robson. The suit is used as a base, with the jacket sometimes replaced by a casual overshirt or a blouson, reports Fabrizio Rojo, head of the German sales team for the Lüneburg-based menswear specialist. Different fabrics, which can be more technical, or styles like corduroy and houndstooth offer additional scope for the new wardrobe.

Shirt specialist Olymp, which no longer presents its formal shirt line and the more relaxed Casual range separately in order to promote the 'new formal wear' concept to customers, showcased items including cashmere overshirts and Japanese knitted shirts, as well as a corduroy suit in an elegant bordeaux. Elias Banai, area sales manager for Olymp Signature in Northern Germany, confirmed that the German company was able to maintain its price points for this season.

Alongside corduroy, flannel and vertical stripes were popular themes seen across a variety of brands, from classic looks to streetwear labels. The latter are increasingly trying to move away from stereotypes and adopt a more polished style. A good example is Prohibited, which plays with preppy and 'old money' aesthetics in its current “Back in the Days” collection, as it has in previous seasons, without straying too far into classic menswear. The Berlin-based label embodies a sporty vintage vibe, featuring casual football jerseys; a knitted tracksuit; a hunting-inspired wax jacket; a flannel shirt; and a smart striped shirt.

Bielefeld-based shirt specialist Seidensticker also shows a mix of classic and modern in its younger Studio line. While one side draws inspiration from the main line's shirts, giving them a fresh touch, new accents like wool for coats and silver-metallic pieces, previously absent from the collection, are also gaining traction. According to creative director Marc Biggemann, a pair of casual, cropped suit trousers is currently among the bestsellers.

In terms of colour, bordeaux stood out alongside the typical, muted tones. This colour was seen not only at Studio Seidensticker but also at many other brands such as the Danish label Anerkjendt, German menswear provider Dressler, outerwear brands Woolrich and Superdry, as well as Roy Robson and Olymp.

The colour was used on half-zip jumpers, a key piece for the season. Ranging from sporty-casual to elegant, it finds its place everywhere and opens up numerous styling possibilities for layering.

Outerwear answers

Layering is also the answer of many menswear brands to the changeable weather. Brands without strong outerwear ambitions, in particular, are opting for lighter coats, as demonstrated by Roy Robson at its stand.

The layered look is being adopted by outerwear specialists, as Bogner proves. The Munich-based apparel company presented several highlight looks that blurred the lines between skiwear and ready-to-wear. Baselayers and roll-necks were shown under overshirts and various sporty jackets. The collection's standout piece was a denim ski jacket and matching trousers, equipped with all the necessary functions for the slopes, explained Michael Wrobel, director of retail at Bogner.

Outerwear brand Halo, part of the Danish sportswear company Hummel, debuted at Pitti Uomo, bringing its new premium capsule “Special Force Lab”. A waterproof, red down jacket from the brand caught everyone's eye, even prompting visitors to take photos with the campaign images, reported brand manager Nicolaj Tolstrup.

Research and innovation were the “central themes” of the current edition, according to Napoleone. Several jacket experts, in particular, demonstrated this. In the Chinese pavilion, “China Wave”, the apparel group Septwolves presented some of its new jacket technologies. These include an inflatable hood that can be converted into a neck pillow and a Bluetooth headset integrated into the sleeve.

Meanwhile, Save the Duck showcased its feather-free jackets, which are becoming increasingly lightweight while withstanding harsher weather conditions and cold. A brand new addition is the Italian label's own shoe collection, developed with a local producer and inspired by the outerwear collection.

Under a new flag

Bogner returned to Pitti Uomo this season after more than ten years, now with new investor Katjes. According to Wrobel, the confectionery manufacturer does not have a direct influence on the fashion side and leaves the team to their work. However, they are in constant communication, and there is definite interest from the new majority owner in the fashion company's operations.

The originally US-founded brand Woolrich also has a new owner since the end of last year: the Italian apparel group BasicNet, which also owns brands like Kappa, K-Way and Sebago. The new owner is using the trade fair to announce its strategy, which is primarily based on the brand's extensive archive.

Superdry, meanwhile, presented a rebrand as Superdry & Co, which includes a new logo, a new wordmark and a preppy look. The ‘Co’ is intended to signify the British brand's ambitions to present other brands under its corporate umbrella, explains Superdry CEO Julian Dunkerton. This includes the recently acquired licence for the brand Bench, whose comeback is now set to be initiated, as well as potential future projects.

Pitti beauty

The organisers of Pitti Uomo are continuously advancing the trade fair concept, enriching it with new ideas. At the current edition, the ‘Hi Beauty’ section, dedicated to niche perfumery, brought a breath of fresh air. In total, around 30 fragrance brands presented their products at Pitti Uomo, including Saranghaezo.

The Korean label was represented at the fair by its European distribution partner, Fluxus International. Fluxus founder Olivier-Charles Degen drew a positive conclusion after the first two days and was pleased with the high level of interest.

It is difficult for a niche perfume to tap into new markets and attract customers, as the market is saturated. Therefore, the trade fair is a good option for reaching other segments, such as the fashion industry. Small concept stores that offer a curated selection are particularly interested, but the goal is also to increasingly reach major retailers.