Balmain enters its new era with Antonin Tron
Paris, France - For his debut show at the helm of Balmain, French designer Antonin Tron presented a rock and sensual collection on Wednesday. This continued the legacy of his predecessor, Olivier Rousteing. The show took place on the third day of Paris Fashion Week, dedicated to autumn/winter 2026 womenswear.
As a tribute to Pierre Balmain's passion for cinema, the show was held in a building in Paris's 14th arrondissement. It was the location for the final scene of Jean-Luc Godard's film 'Breathless' (1960), starring Jean-Paul Belmondo.
Cinema's leading ladies, Naomi Watts and Diane Kruger, were seated in the front row.
The house of Balmain, defined by Olivier Rousteing's 14-year tenure, had long made commercially viable red-carpet glamour its signature. Antonin Tron, founder of the brand Atlein with experience at Givenchy, Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga, was appointed artistic director in late November. His appointment came a week after Rousteing's surprise departure.
His debut show marked a clear departure with less restrictive silhouettes. The models walked with poise and freedom, revealing a very ready-to-wear collection. Almost every look is adaptable for the street and the daily life of a working woman.
Dries Van Noten's hunting-inspired colour palette
At Dries Van Noten, next winter's fashion evoked cosy teas in the English countryside. The collection featured tweed suits; lightweight puffer jackets; enveloping trench coats; and long satin skirts. The colour palette was inspired by hunting and fireside hues.
Appointed in December 2024, Julian Klausner inherits a house known for its allegiance to its founder's poetic vision. This vision is sometimes distant from market trends but is adored by the most discerning fashion connoisseurs.
More understated Courrèges
Earlier in the Paris Fashion Week marathon, Courrèges broke another taboo. The visually sacrilegious pairing of navy blue and black was mixed across all materials for next winter, from leather-cotton to knit-leather. Notably, the famous 'Olsen tuck' made an appearance. This refers to the trendy Olsen sisters' brand and features an oversized collar that is turned up, catching the hair for a very rushed woman effect.
The iconic French brand of the 1970s, revived from obscurity by designer Nicolas Di Felice, presented a show on Wednesday that was undeniably more understated than usual. The scenography, space and guest list were all scaled back. This raised some questions about the financial health of its investor, the Pinault family's holding company, Artemis.
This is especially noteworthy as Artemis's other fashion house, the Parisian label Giambattista Valli, has once again quietly cancelled its show this season. The brand has refused to comment on its situation.