Jonathan Anderson plays with pleats for Dior haute couture

Paris - Pleating was showcased in all its splendour. Designer Jonathan Anderson celebrated pleats in his second haute couture collection for Dior, presented in Paris on Monday.

The pleating technique was featured across a large part of the wardrobe proposed by the Northern Irish designer for the autumn/winter 2026-2027 season. This included everything from sculptural dresses and fluid ensembles to coats and trousers.

Anderson, a great art enthusiast, paid homage to American artist Lynda Benglis, who is known for her sculptures and relief pieces.

“Many of the artist's works originate from two-dimensional materials that are transformed into three-dimensional objects through techniques such as knotting, pleating or moulding. The art of haute couture undergoes a similar transformation. The fabric takes on a sculptural form, which is accentuated when worn,” the designer explained in a press release.

The silhouettes were presented in what appeared to be a forest of ferns at the Rodin Museum. The colour palette consisted mainly of white, grey and black, with touches of copper, silver, red and apple green.

Many garments featured floral details. Examples include a mesh ensemble with wide, mille-feuille pleats and a black coat finished with embroidered white ferns.

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Sabrina Carpenter, Josh O'Connor, Pharrell Williams and Priyanka Chopra were among the stars who attended the show.

Anderson, considered one of fashion's prodigies, is a tireless worker. Just two weeks ago, he presented the French house's menswear line in Paris. His name was also circulating recently as the creator of Taylor Swift's wedding dress for her wedding to Travis Kelce in New York.

At 41 years old, the British designer was appointed artistic director of Dior's womenswear and menswear collections last year. He is now the first designer since Christian Dior to oversee all three lines of the iconic LVMH house, including haute couture.

Unlike Fashion Week, haute couture shows are held exclusively in Paris. They take place in January for the summer season and in July for the winter season. It is a French speciality where unique, handmade pieces are presented, primarily intended for grand galas and red carpet events.