Menswear put to the heat test: Pitti Uomo street style

Pitti Uomo has always been considered the unofficial start of the menswear season, once again gathering the international fashion crowd in Florence. As a staple in the menswear calendar, the trade fair combines presentation and production like few other formats. It sets the stylistic tone for upcoming collections and street style discussions early in the year. The summer edition regularly brings its own challenges, as Florence in June means one thing above all: intense heat.

This year, temperatures once again rose to over 35 degrees. The attendees, however, seemed unfazed. Away from the exhibition spaces, it became clear that style and summer heat are not mutually exclusive.

Seventies flair

Wide-leg flared trousers, broad lapels, open collars and fabrics in cream white, mustard yellow and deep navy blue were all on display. The influence of the seventies was clearly felt at this year's Pitti Uomo. The references seemed less like deliberate retro nods, instead fitting naturally into contemporary proportions and combinations.

Looks included a cream-coloured double-breasted jacket with an open shirt and wide lapels paired with flared trousers, and a mustard-yellow linen suit complemented by a zigzag-patterned shopper bag. A key must-have was the unbuttoned shirt collar worn over the suit lapels. Overall, the silhouettes recalled the relaxed elegance of the decade without indulging in excessive nostalgia.

Extra sunshine

Yellow appeared at this year's Pitti Uomo not just as an occasional accent, but as a recurring colour theme. From deep mustard tones to light pastel shades, the colour was present in various intensities and combinations. It was seen in full linen suits, as a striped camp shirt, or as a pale yellow jacket worn with a white T-shirt.

Bare legs

Pitti Uomo remains one of the most traditional and tailoring-focused events, particularly for street style. The heat this year, however, provided new inspiration, making shorts the unofficial dress code.

Few attendees opted for jorts or classic sports shorts. Instead, shorts were predominantly worn with structured tops. Examples included a linen blazer with dark shorts; a chore coat over shorts paired with white socks and sandals; or a patterned linen suit co-ord with Bermuda-length shorts.

Denim defies the heat

Even in the summer temperatures, denim-on-denim was a recurring look at this year's Pitti Uomo. The monochrome style was often paired with accessories that added variety.

Sightings included a burgundy tie with a horse motif over a denim shirt, and a denim blazer with a patterned tie and several pins on the lapel. A female attendee's red pillbox hat also provided a distinct pop of colour against the all-blue ensemble.

Carrying it all

In addition to clothing and shoes, bags also took centre stage this season as a standalone style statement for men. The selection was varied. It ranged from a patinated leather document holder featuring a carefully rolled-up “Gazzetta dello Sport” to a printed cotton shopper. Also seen was a generously sized, cognac-coloured leather bag, offering enough space to be prepared for any eventuality.

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