From celebrity to product: fashion moves on from star designers

Paris – The appointments of Jonathan Anderson at Dior and Matthieu Blazy at Chanel seem to turn the page on the era of star designers. These profiles focus more on the product and less on the spectacle.

With little presence in the media and on social media, both creatives have fiercely protected their private lives. They are the antithesis of the well-known figures who have dominated the fashion landscape until now.

Following in their footsteps are Glenn Martens, who took over from the eccentric John Galliano at Maison Margiela; Michael Rider, successor to the influential Hedi Slimane at Celine; and Pierpaolo Piccioli, who replaced the provocative Demna at Balenciaga.

"It is a bit like the season that rewards the good students," Pierre Groppo, head of fashion and lifestyle at Vanity Fair France, tells AFP.

"We are a long way from Galliano or Karl Lagerfeld, who were recognisable to everyone and were truly entities above the brands," analyses Adrien Communier, head of the fashion section at GQ France.

The golden age of star designers in the 1990s and 2000s saw the rise of artistic directors who became as famous as the houses they represented.

Fashion is now returning to designers who serve the brand.

Added value

This new strategy is taking place in a less favourable economic context for the luxury sector.

After several years of post-pandemic prosperity, the fashion industry is facing a slowdown in demand, particularly in Asia. It is also contending with the protectionist offensive from the US, which has just imposed new tariffs.

"Brands are looking to create more value. They need to legitimise their position by reclaiming real added value," comments Alice Feillard, menswear buying director at Galeries Lafayette.

"That is exactly what the customer is asking for today," she continues. Less spectacle and more style means: "The focus will be on the brands' history, their technical expertise and the product itself."

Discreet but experienced

In this context, the appointments of Jonathan Anderson and Matthieu Blazy, both 41 years old, emerge as strategic decisions.

"Both share an approach based on culture, technique and intelligent craftsmanship, with an artistic vision rooted in the long term, not in fleeting trends," explains Sophie Abriat, an author specialising in fashion and luxury.

Although they are relatively unknown to the general public, their track records speak for themselves.

Northern Irishman Jonathan Anderson had already proven his worth at the LVMH group before being appointed to head Dior's menswear, womenswear and haute couture lines.

At the helm of the Spanish brand Loewe for the past 11 years, he has made it one of the luxury group's greatest successes. His own label, JW Anderson, has also achieved significant recognition.

The Franco-Belgian Matthieu Blazy contributed to the renewed popularity of Bottega Veneta (Kering group), where he was artistic director from 2021 to 2024. He breathed new life into the Italian brand's famous woven leather.

These are experienced profiles whose "objective is not so much to revolutionise as to have a coherent, authentic and strong narrative that resonates with both the brand and the evolution of consumers," emphasises Serge Carreira, a professor at Sciences Po Paris and a specialist in the luxury industry.

The brands will be the stars, not the designers, insists Alice Feillard. "This is a very positive thing; we need to reclaim more creativity," she adds.

Although less visible, these creators "are no less exposed," believes Sophie Aubriat. "They are expected to deliver not only a strong creative vision but also concrete financial results."