Independence, informality and a touch of tradition: Relaxed gathering of the watch industry

Automated translation

Fairs

Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual collection. Image: Rolex.

An important summer meeting for watchmakers took place in a nautically designed pavilion in Switzerland. With a brand-new format and a varied programme, Geneva Watch Days is a relatively new entry in the industry calendar. It aims to remain fresh and forward-looking.

Founded as a one-off antidote to the economic downturn during the Covid-19 pandemic, the fair is now in its sixth edition and presented a record 66 brands.

“It’s a very convivial, collective celebration of an art,” commented Jean-Christophe Babin, president of Geneva Watch Days and chief executive officer of Bulgari. “It’s a celebration because it’s not transactional, but cultural and educational. It’s meant to inspire people to become watchmakers.”

The organisers pride themselves on an open, multifaceted atmosphere that sets the fair apart from its contemporaries. Established brands meet some of today’s most innovative independent companies. Professionals mingle with collectors and the general public.

“Geneva Watch Days is the kind of watch fair I’ve been hoping for, for many years,” said Maximilian Büsser, CEO of leading independent company MB&F. “It’s people who love watches, talking to people who love watches.”

Büsser’s enthusiasm reflects the changing fortunes of an industry whose products are now among the most sought-after on the market.

“You have to understand that us independents never had the opportunity to advertise.”

“For twenty years, it was terribly difficult for us because nobody paid attention. The work that artisanal independent companies have been doing for decades is now suddenly being recognised.”

Geneva Watch Days’ commitment to diversity is evident in a freely accessible exhibition amidst the striped deckchairs and sails of the renovated venue.

The 150 timepieces on display range from the unusual to the classic. Behrens and Konstantin Chaykin’s face-shaped ‘Ace of Hearts’ shows eyes filled with hours and minutes. It sits alongside TAG Heuer’s square ‘1969 Monaco’, made famous by actor Steve McQueen in the film ‘Le Mans’.

Another highlight is the world’s first time-setting competition. The competition is open to professionals and amateurs. The latter receive free coaching from students of the Geneva Watchmaking School.

In daily discussions and symposia, industry leaders and outsiders exchange ideas on shared challenges. Sustainability and customer experience, reaching Gen Z and attracting young people to the industry are current topics.

The event takes place at a time when the luxury industry, like many others, is keeping an eye on the unpredictable geopolitical situation.

“We are in an unprecedented context marked by conflict and economic instability. Another point is political uncertainty. This uncertainty leads to a certain caution on the part of clients,” noted Babin.

The founder of Geneva Watch Days, however, is optimistic about the prospects for an industry that has been around longer than most.

“Luxury is something very profound. You cannot go back 15,000 years and grow century after century, millennium after millennium, if there isn’t something that is almost genetic. This is why I remain very optimistic.” (AFP)

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

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